Athlete Tyler Morris got into a dangerous situation while out at the North Shore of Hawaii preparing for the Pro Jr Nationals. He and Pro surf Legend Derrick Dorner were at Makaha Beach with 25 footers pounding in, it literally took them one hour and fifteen minutes of intense paddling to get to line up.
Tyler was a bit sketched out when he heard Derrick say “go for it”. Tyler ended up missing that wave and that’s where the trouble started, he looked back only to see four MASSIVE mountains of water coming at him. He was paddling for his life when he realized he had to dive for the bottom. The wave crashed and he was violently thrown around and around. Once it stopped he made it up for a gulp of air, just in time to see two more walls of water heading straight for him. He was jerked and twisted around so much he didn’t know up from down anymore, that’s when he saw a glimmer of light and swam for the surface.
Now for the bad news, when he went to take a breath of air all he got was lungs full of sea foam. The last wave hit and he was underwater for what felt like an hour, long story short Tyler survived this “near death” experience. He was exhausted and kicked out to the left where he relaxed in still water thankful to be able surf another day.